Skilsaw Worm Drive Table Saw SPT70WT-22 Review


Skilsaw Worm Drive Table Saw SPT70WT-22 Review

Table Saw Reviews: What’s So Special About Them?

The purpose of this section is to provide information about various types of tablesaws. While there are many different types of tablesaws available today, they all have one thing in common – they cut wood. Most other types of tools, such as routers, bandsaws and jigsaws, do not cut wood. They simply slice it up into smaller pieces. Other types of table saws may or may not have attachments that allow them to operate at higher speeds than others; however, most will have some type of speed control. Some table saws come with accessories like blades and accessories that make them easier to use.

There are several reasons why people buy tablesaws. One reason is because they want to get rid of their old table saws. Another reason is that they want to upgrade from a less powerful model.

Still another reason is that they just enjoy using them and would like something better than what they currently own. There are even those who purchase tablesaws so that they can take advantage of the benefits offered by certain manufacturers’ products (such as warranties).

Some people buy tablesaws primarily for the cutting power provided by these machines. Others buy them for the accuracy and precision that many of these tools offer. Some people even buy these tools for the speed in which they are able to work.

Though there is no single best reason to buy a tablesaw, the best advice is to buy a model that meets your needs and fits your budget.

Why You Should Buy a Tablesaw

Tablesaws are one of the most popular power tools ever created. They are commonly used to cut and shape wood and other materials. They can be used by carpenters, furniture makers, cabinetry professionals, and many other types of builders.

The ability to make precise cuts is essential for these people.

The main reasons why people buy tablesaws are:

Cutting Power: Most users buy it for the cutting power that this tool offers. It can rip through a 4×4 inch piece of wood like it’s butter. Even the most basic tablesaw can cut through a 2×4.

Precision: Some users also buy this tool for the precision that it offers when cutting wood. It is possible to make extremely thin cuts with a high degree of accuracy when using the right blade on your tablesaw.

Long Lasting: Tablesaws can last for several decades if they are taken care of properly. Even commercial models can last a long time if they are cleaned and oiled on a regular basis.

Versatility: While most people think of tablesaws as tools that are only used for cutting, there are many other uses that can be applied to this versatile tool. It can also be used to create joints, cut moldings, and even carve artistic designs.

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So whether you are a carpenter, hobbyist, or just someone who needs to cut something every now and then, having a tablesaw in your shop will certainly come in handy.

How to Find the Best Tablesaw

Not all tablesaws are created equal. Some are better than others depending on what features you want and need in a tablesaw. Here are some factors to consider when looking for the best tablesaw for your needs.

Blade Brakes: The main use of most tablesaws is cutting wood in a straight line. Some people, however, cut materials that are longer and more flexible than wood, such as metal and masonite. For these people, it’s important for their saws to have blade brakes.

These devices allow you to lock the blade in place after it has gone all the way through a piece of material so you don’t get injured when trying to pull it out the back end.

Fence: It’s important for the fence to be repositionable and very sturdy. It should be able to securely lock into place to ensure a straight cut every time. The manual describes how to use and adjust it.

Miter Gauge: A miter gauge allows you to make angled cuts much easier and more accurately. Some saws come with a miter gauge, but if they don’t, one can be purchased separately.

Rip Fence: This device clamps to the front of the table and helps guide long pieces of material through the saw blade. It should be easy to attach and detach.

Table Extension: For larger projects, it’s helpful to have a table extension that can be added to the front end of the saw’s main table. This gives you a longer work surface.

Throat Plate: The throat plate is that rectangular piece of metal at the bottom of the table. There are usually holes in it to let the sawdust fall through. On most saws, you can adjust the height of this plate to make sure whatever you’re cutting falls through completely.

Tool Rest: This is a smaller plate that hods the front edge of the material you’re cutting. This lets you position the material exactly where you want it before making a cut. On some saws you can adjust the height of this plate as well.

Variable Speed: A good tablesaw should let you control the speed at which the blade moves. This is important if you’re cutting different materials or if you’re using a carbide-tipped blade, which requires a slower speed to prevent it from getting too hot.

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Size: The size of the tablesaw you need depends on how many projects you have and what kind of materials you’ll be cutting. If you’re planning on doing large scale projects, then you’ll need a larger saw, while smaller hobbyist projects require smaller, lighter saws.

A good rule of thumb is to take your typical project and figure out how much room it takes up in linear feet (e.g. a row of bookshelf speakers on edge is about 2 feet long, a credenza is around 5 feet long, etc.) Multiply this by the number of projects you typically do and get a rough estimate of how many linear feet you’ll be cutting in one session.

A lot of tablesaws can cut up to 12 linear feet at a time. After that, you’re going to need to swap out the material or rip it in half and re-orient it.

Power Source: Most tablesaws are powered electrically, but you can also find some that are powered by a air compressor or even a vehicle.

There are many points in favor of an electric saw. They tend to be cheaper and easier to find. Air-powered saws are good if you’re going to be doing a lot on site because you don’t have to worry about finding a power outlet, but the compressors themselves are expensive and loud.

Most saws will list the minimum amperage that’s required to run it. Find out what kind of outlet you have (110V, 220V, etc.) and make sure your extension cord can handle that amperage.

Don’t try to save money by buying a cheap extension cord. Buy a heavy-duty/industrial grade one. Don’t be surprised if a 13A extension cord costs $80 or more.

Some people will say that you should never run an electric tablesaw on a 20A circuit. With most other electrical devices, this is probably true, but a tablesaw really doesn’t use much electricity at all. It’s not going to overload a 20A circuit (which is only for small appliances anyway).

Just don’t run any other large appliances on the same circuit and you should be fine.

Make sure that the circuit has enough electrical ground. You shouldn’t have an issue with this if the outlet is grounded, but it can’t hurt to ground yourself by touching a metal part of the saw before you grab the handle (make sure it’s not plugged in at this time).

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Never put your hands inside the tablesaw while it’s running. This is pretty much common sense, but I’ve seen people do some stupid things.

When you’re ripping a piece of material, always push the material against the side that has the guard. It’s safer and keeps the workpiece more stable.

Use featherboards or hold down expert to keep thinner pieces from bending and buckling while you make a cut. (You can also clamp a piece of scrap wood alongside the workpiece to achieve the same thing).

Stand to the side of the blade, not in line with it. This ensures that if the blade “bolts”, it wont hit you directly and can hopefully be stopped by the blade guard.

Don’t wear loose clothing or jewelry when operating a tablesaw. Long hair should be tied back. Make sure your shirt is tucked in and there are no important items in your pockets (like cell phones).

Don’t wear sandals or flipflops when operating a tablesaw. You don’t want your feet getting caught in the blade if it starts to malfunction. If using a radial arm saw, make sure to have proper safety gear and never use that saw for cutting.

Don’t try to rip a piece of plywood that’s wider than the tablesaw’s table. You can’t control it (well, you can, but you shouldn’t because it’s dangerous).

Be extremely careful when ripping narrow pieces. They can be quite unwieldy and tend to “wander” off the table. Walk behind it as you push it through the blade to make sure it doesn’t suddenly veer off to the side.

Make sure that your material is properly clamped in place before you start making cuts. Don’t rely on just the miter gauge (or other attachment). Clamp from behind too or use a hold down.

Make sure you know how to turn off the tablesaw and which switch is the on/off switch.

Don’t try to “race” a spinning sawblade. Take your time and focus on what you’re doing.

If you have to make a “second pass” on a piece of material, don’t go back the other direction. It’s safer to step to the side and make your cut.

Never use a blade that is bent, chipped, or otherwise not in perfect condition. Throw it away and get a new one. Don’t try to “make do” with a sub-par blade.

Make sure there are no small items on the floor that can get sucked up by the tablesaw. Dust and scraps of paper can cause the blade to “grab” and induce kickback.

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Don’t use a dado blade to create the final edge on a piece of plywood. It will ruin the teeth (and your day).

Never use a tablesaw to cut green (unseasoned) lumber or wood that has not been properly jointed, planed, and straightened. Bad wood = bad results.

Always sand all your workpieces before you make your final cut. Keep the tablesaw blades sharp too.

If you’re making a lot of cuts on a workpiece (especially anything with angles), it’s more precise and easier on the blade to make several “passes” instead of one long cut. Make sure you align everything perfectly before each pass.

If your tablesaw does not have a riving knife, don’t try to make shallow cuts (like for picture frames). The danger of kickback is just too great.

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