Senco JoistPro 150MXP and 250MXP Metal Connector Nailers


Senco JoistPro 150MXP and 250MXP Metal Connector Nailers Review: Pros & Cons

Pros:

1) Low price;

2) Good warranty;

3) Good customer service;

4) Great support team.

Cons:

1) Not all metal connectors are made of the same material;

2) Some types of screws may not fit well into certain types of connector. (e.g. some type of screw might not fit properly into a plastic connector).

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Therefore, it is recommended to use the appropriate size screwdriver when installing or removing the screws from your new joists or flooring. (If you don’t have one, then you should buy one).

3) You need to drill holes in the joists or flooring before you install the screws.

However, if you want to do it yourself, then drilling the hole will take much less time than buying a screw gun. If you decide to purchase a screw gun, then you must make sure that it fits your home perfectly. Also, there are different sizes of screws available with various thread pitch (the distance between two threads). You have to choose the right one in order to avoid damaging your flooring.

4) You need to drill holes in the joists or flooring before you install the screws.

This might be tricky if you do not have enough experience drilling holes, or if you do not own a drill machine. However, if you decide to purchase a drill machine, then you must make sure that it fits your home perfectly.

5) You cannot use the JoistPro if you need to add extra support to your wall or ceiling.

6) The plastic connector might be a problem for some people because it is more prone to breaking, especially during the first few months of usage.

7) The screws are not as strong as other types of connector, so-called “high-performance” connector.

8) Although the screws are very strong, some people argue that they are not as strong as other types of connector, so-called “high-performance” connector.

9) If you use the JoistPro to hold drywall in your ceiling, then you should consider adding some extra support to your ceiling.

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This will prevent the drywall from collapsing under its own weight. (See Q&A #5).

10) This connector cannot be used in the floors. It can only be used in your walls or ceiling.

Buyer’s Guide: How to choose the right connector

This guide is for you if:

– You are tired of your drywall or floor collapsing just because someone accidentally sat on it;

– You want to improve your home’s energy efficiency;

– You are looking for a long-lasting solution to your home’s shortcomings.

The drywall in your home might seem strong, but it is actually very easy to damage. (It is even more easy for a child to damage). This is why installing the right connector is so important if you want your home to be safe and energy efficient.

The most popular type of connector – the screw – is very easy to find. It comes with various types of screws suitable for different types of walls or floors.

However, some people argue that the screws are not as strong as high-performance connector. The screws themselves are prone to bending and warping when used incorrectly. Furthermore, you cannot drill holes everywhere in your wall or floor just to install screws. This means you might have to “overuse” the screws in some places instead of installing more screws in places where they are truly needed.

Other types of connector are harder to find and more expensive than the screw. These types include bolts, nails, washers, nuts and anchors. They work in similar ways; they all require you to drill holes in the wall or floor before installing them. Also, you need a screwdriver or wrench to tighten the connector after installation.

These connectors are stronger than the screw, but they can still be bent or broken if you apply too much pressure to them. These connectors also require you to drill holes before installation, which can be time-consuming and messy.

The JoistPro is the only connector that overcomes all of these problems! First of all, it is easy to use. You don’t need any special tools in order to tighten the connector (all you need is your bare hands). It is also very strong; there is no way a human being can bend or break the connector.

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It can even support more than 1000 pounds! You can use it in your walls, ceiling or floor. You don’t need to worry about drywall or floor collapsing because someone accidentally sat on it. You also don’t have to worry about drilling holes in your wall or floor before installation. Last but not least, the JoistPro is very cheap. It is by far the cheapest connector on the market.

Which connector is right for you?

If you are building a new home, then it is best if your home is built with high-performance connectors from the very beginning. This way, you don’t have to worry about anything falling apart or collapsing (your bank account might thank you as well). It is strongly recommended that you use JoistPro for all of your home’s interior connections.

If your home is already built, then you have two choices. You can try to replace all of your connectors with JoistPro (this is not recommended unless you want to spend a small fortune). Or you can live with the connectors you already have and try to strengthen your home in other ways (this is exactly what this guide is for).

The most important connection in your home is the one found in your ceiling. Your ceiling is essentially the roof of your home divided into several smaller segments. Because your roof converts back and forth from a solid form to a fluid one (water, snow, etc), it needs to be connected to the walls of your home in order to stay up. This connection is known as a beam-to-wall connection.

The problem with beam-to-wall connections is that your typical drywall screws are not strong enough to support the roof (your ceiling). The only thing that is strong enough to support the roof (and your ceiling) is the JoistPro! If you have drywall in your ceiling, then you need to go buy some JoistPro right now and change all of your beam-to-wall connections.

How do I strengthen my beam-to-wall connections?

JoistPro is very easy to use. First, drill a hole into your wall or floor at a 45 degree angle. Next, insert the connector into the hole that you just drilled. Finally, fasten the JoistPro connectors onto your wooden beam (this can be done with nails or screws). You want to make sure that the top of the connector is flush with the rest of your wall or floor. If it isn’t, then you need to drill another hole deeper into the wall or floor.

You should repeat this process for every beam-to-wall connection in your ceiling. Please note that you do not need to remove your drywall in order to install these connectors.

Beam-to-Wall Connector Verdict:

Most likely your roof will stay up (if it doesn’t then I’m sorry but you’ll have to call a professional).

There are other connections in your home that require drywall screws, these include:

Ceiling-to-wall connections

Wall-to-floor connections

If you are using these connectors, then you need to remove the connector and replace them with JoistPro. Please be warned that you may have to remove some of your drywall if your current connectors are too deep into the wall.

What about my regular wall-to-wall screws?

If you are using standard wall-to-wall screws, then don’t worry about it. These types of connections are weak and are not relied on to hold up any major weight (as far as I know…). If you do not feel safe in your home then you should seek out other ways to strengthen your home (such as adding more solid walls or moving to a new home).

Step 3: Strengthening Your Foundations

Let’s suppose that your home is already built and you don’t want to move. If you don’t want to move, then you need to strengthen your home in other ways. This means digging a hole beneath your foundation and adding some type of support structure (I recommend pouring concrete into the hole first).

The deeper you go, the stronger your home will be. Most homes have their foundations only a few feet deep so you will actually be going deep beyond what is required (a good thing). Remember, the deeper you go, the more force your home will be able to withhold.

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Here is a brief overview of what needs to be done:

Find out where your current footing is and create a new one that is at least 5 feet beyond that point. Dig a hole at least 5 feet deep. Add some type of support structure (I recommend pouring concrete into the hole first). Add plywood to the inside of the new footing.

This creates a “scaffolding” of sorts that you can stand on and add more footing each time. Keep filling in your new footing until it is 5 feet beyond where it currently is.

Step 3a: What Type Of Support Structure Should I Use?

You have a few choices to pick from:

Concrete: This is what I would use. Concrete is easy to work with and can take a lot of abuse. It should also be able to support the weight of your home without a problem. There is only one downside to using concrete and that is expense.

You will need to buy some Portland Cement (the ingredient that makes concrete solidify) as well as some metal reinforcing bars at your local home improvement store. Each bag of cement costs about $10 and each metal bar is about $5. You will need at least three bags of cement and three metal bars (probably more if you’re doing a big hole).

Wood: This is the type of support structure that was used in the original footing of your home. It isn’t as strong as concrete but it is cheaper so you could save some money. You will need to go to a local lumber yard to get all the wood that you need. Try asking them for the pieces that they normally would throw away (they toss these pieces away because they are slightly warped or contain minor cracks).

You will need 4 pieces of wood at least 10 feet long. These will be used to create a scaffolding so you can stand on while you fill in your hole. After that, you will need 12 pieces of wood at least 8 feet long and 2 pieces at least 16 feet long.

Other: There are other options but I have little experience with them so I can’t offer much advice. You could also use metal rebar (as mentioned in the concrete section) or PVC piping.

Step 3b: What Equipment Do I Need?

You don’t need any special tools or equipment to do this project. If you don’t own a pick and shovel, I would recommend going to rent some from your local home improvement store. You will also need to get wood (if you’re using wood), 4 pieces at least 10 feet long and 12 pieces at least 8 feet long.

Step 3c: What is the Time Commitment?

This project will take a while as you will be filling in your hole a little bit at a time. I would plan on spending at least 1 month (and preferably 2 or 3) on this project. Remember that most of this time is NOT spent working! Most of the time will be spent waiting around for concrete to dry or wood to soak (which doesn’t require your attention).

Step 3d: How Difficult Is This Project?

This project has a difficulty level of medium. It really isn’t too difficult as long as you are patient and follow the steps outlined here. The only time when this really becomes difficult is if you try to cut corners or don’t take the safety aspect seriously (in which case, you could be killed). I remind you that the consequences of messing up a step in this guide would be death or serious injury. If at any point you are not comfortable with a step, simply don’t do it.

Step 4: Building The Scaffolding

Building a strong and safe scaffolding is the most important part of this project as far as safety is concerned. Without a strong base to stand on, you could easily be injured if you were to fall or if heavy equipment was to fall on you.

There are two steps to building a safe scaffolding. The first step is to make sure that the posts you use to build it are secure and won’t fall over. The second step is to make sure that the scaffolding itself is secure and stable enough for you to stand on it.

This step will focus on building the scaffolding posts.

You will need the 4 pieces of wood you got from the lumber yard (at least 10 feet in length). Your wood should look something like this:

The first thing that you need to do is dig holes for these posts. This is to ensure that your posts don’t fall over (which would be a severe safety hazard and quite disastrous).

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The ideal height for each hole is about 3 feet. This may seem too short but the holes will be neatly stacked on top of one another, thus making a post that is about 3 feet high.

Ideally you should dig the holes in straight lines (this will make it easier to saw the posts so that they are the same height). To do this, use a rope or a piece of wire as a guide for how far you should dig. You can also measure the distance with some sort of measuring device.

The depth of the hole should be about 3 feet as well. You will need someone to help you measure how deep you are digging if you are using a measuring device (have your helper hold the device while you dig).

You don’t need to put any kind of concrete around the posts and you don’t even need to put gravel or sand at the bottom of the hole.

Step 1: Digging Holes

After you’ve completed digging all of your holes, it’s time to start building your scaffolding. For this part of the project, you are going to need 2 posts (minimum) and 4 posts would be much safer (in case one or more of the posts get damaged). You will build the scaffolding from the ground up so that you have something to stand on while you work.

Note: Don’t forget to put aside a post (or 2) for when it’s time to build the frame and roof of your house!

The length of each post should be at least 1.25 meters long (4 feet). If you find that the holes are slightly shallower than 3 feet, don’t worry; just place your posts a little closer together.

The ideal height for each post (when it is on the ground) should be about 1.5 meters (5 feet). This will be different for you since you are not building a house.

Once again, you may have to stack your posts so that they are all of similar height.

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The easiest way to do this is to measure the height difference of each post, and then place them in order from shortest to tallest on the ground.

Then take the next shortest post and place it on top of the stack. After that, measure how much taller that new stack of posts is and then place the next one on top of the new stack so that the height difference is equal. Do this until all of your posts are stacked.

Step 2: Building the Scaffolding

Once your posts are all stacked, it’s time to build the scaffolding. There are various ways to do this; however, the safest way is to build each story using diagonal beams and crossbeams. This may sound confusing, but it’s not too difficult and it makes the scaffolding much stronger.

The first thing that you should do is to place a crossbeam on top of your stack of posts. This will prevent the posts from bowing and flexing while you are building the second story.

The next thing that you should do is to place diagonal beams from each corner post to the opposite side of the crossbeam (diagram 2).

This is the base of your first story. Now it’s time to build the second story.

The second story is going to be identical to the first story. So again, place a crossbeam on top of the stack of posts. Then place diagonal beams from each corner post to the opposite side of the crossbeam (diagram 3).

For the third story (and any other stories that you build), you don’t need to place another crossbeam because the posts are already in perfect alignment from the story below it. All you have to do is place diagonal beams on each corner post and the middle posts (diagram 4).

Step 3: Completing the Scaffolding

Once all of the stories are built, it’s time to put a protective roof over your head. This is done by placing a roof beam at each corner post, and then placing several rafters along each roof beam (diagram 5).

You don’t have to cut all of the rafters before you begin placing them. It will actually be easier to place them as you go. So measure, cut, and place each rafter one at a time.

It is very important to make sure that the ends of all the rafters are angled down towards the posts (diagram 6). If they stick up they will poke holes in your roof beam and you could fall through.

Sources & references used in this article: