RIDGID RP 210 Batteries
The Ridgid RP210 batteries are made from lithium ion polymer (LiPo) chemistry. They have a capacity of 1,000 mAh and they come with a nominal voltage rating of 2.7V.
The cells are sealed to prevent leakage and will not overheat or catch fire when being used in your electric tools.
Ridgid RP 210 Manual
The manual for the Ridgid RP210 battery contains useful information such as:
Specifications of the Ridgid RP210 Battery Capacity (mAh): 1,000 Maximum Voltage Rating: 2.7 V Discharge Current Range: 0.5A – 3.0A Maximum Charging Voltage: 4.2 V Recommended Charging Current: 0.5 A
Do not incinerate your used batteries. If a battery leaks and the cells contact skin, rinse immediately with water and seek medical attention
Ridgid RP210 Parts
The battery is the core of any cordless power tool. Without a battery, an electric drill is nothing more than a really heavy wrench. While there are many different types of power tool batteries, they all contain the same basic components.
Cell – Also known as a battery cell, this is the main component of any cordless power tool battery. It is a series of electrochemical cells encased in hard plastic to protect against physical damage and electrical shorts. The number and size of these cells determines the capacity (mAh) and voltage of a power tool battery.
Anode (positive electrode) – The anode is one of the two electrodes (electrical contacts) in a lithium-ion cell. During the electrochemical reaction it provides a path for electrons to leave the cell and become energy for your cordless power tool.
Cathode (negative electrode) – The cathode is one of the two electrodes in a lithium-ion cell. During the electrochemical reaction it provides a path for electrons to enter the cell and become energy for your cordless power tool.
Cell Wrapper – The hard plastic case that protects the cell electrode components.
Ridgid RP 210 Charger
The charger consists of three major components: a power supply, a control system and a charger controller. The charger controller is an integrated circuit board with a microprocessor that monitors the charging process. It receives information from the battery along with the voltage and current coming from the power supply.
It then sends appropriate signals back to the power supply to regulate the charging current and prevent the battery from overcharging or being over-discharged. The control system, which consists of the microprocessor and associated circuitry, communicates with the charger controller to provide information on battery type and capacity.
Ridgid RP210 Charger Port
The charger port is the part of the tool that the battery locks onto. The battery will only fit into the port one way, so you cannot put it in upside down, which could cause battery acid to leak. If the battery is damaged, excess current may flow causing a fire or explosion.
Once the battery is locked into place, you should not play with it or move it around.
Ridgid RP210 Battery Charging
Charging batteries should be done in a fireproof location away from flammable materials. Do not expose the battery to direct flame or sparks. The battery and its lifeline of charging current is a great source of energy that can lead to an explosion, if misused.
Unlike charging your cell phone, you do not want to charge your cordless power tool battery overnight. If you do not plan to use it for more than two weeks, it is best to remove the battery from the tool. If you leave it in the charger too long, it can overcharge or even explode.
Lithium-Ion (Li-Ion) – Originally, all cordless power tools used Nicad batteries. As technology evolved, cordless tools started using lithium-ion (Li-Ion) batteries. They are more efficient and can hold a charge longer than Nicad batteries.
However, they are also more dangerous and can misbehave if mistreated. If you modify your battery in any way, it can short-circuit and cause a fire. The most common modification is to remove the battery’s internal protection circuit.
Nickel-Cadmium (Nicad) – Before Li-Ion batteries were developed, most power tools used batteries that had nickel-cadmium (Nicad) technology. Compared to newer technology, they are more prone to leakage and have a shorter life span. They can also be severely damaged by improper charging.
Nicad and Li-Ion batteries have different charger ports. The battery’s charger port has small metal contacts that connect to the battery’s power source. The charger itself converts standard household current (120 V) into a lower voltage suitable for the battery.
The contacts on the charger port make and break the connection as you insert or remove the battery. If the battery is not making good contact with the charger, the current will not flow and it will not charge. To improve the connection, rub chalk over the metal contacts on the charger port and the battery itself. This way, if the port or battery is dirty, you can easily see if it is working properly.
Underwriters Laboratories (UL) is an independent testing lab that evaluates products for safety. The term “UL-approved” or “FCC-approved” on your charger means it has been tested and meets safety standards. For example, the Ridgid RP210 charger is labeled “CSA/UL approved.” CSA is another testing lab that works with UL.
Ridgid recommends that you replace your battery if you notice a reduction in run time, if it doesn’t hold a charge as long, or if it gets hot while charging or using. Overcharging also shortens a battery’s life and could cause fire or injury. A battery has a limited life span and may need to be replaced every year or two.
Always keep the battery out of the charger if it is fully charged.
Once you have your battery in place, it’s time to turn on the tool and look for any loose parts. If you are missing a tightening screw or a washer, you should replace it right away. It is important to tighten all parts correctly, because a loose part could fall off or break while you are working.
Your battery’s charge indicator light lets you know how much power is left in the battery. If the light is green, the battery has at least 70% charge and can still run at full speed. A yellow light means the battery has 40-70% charge and can still drive screws at full power.
However, it may not have enough power to both drive a screw and run the tool’s motor at the same time. A red light means the battery has less than 40% charge and may not be able to drive a screw.
The indicator light is either a small button or an LED that lights up:
Your charger can identify the battery type and charge it correctly without any help from you. All you have to do is put the battery into the charger, and the charger will do the rest. If your drill does not have this feature, you must press a button to start charging.
If you notice your battery getting warm during charging, remove the battery from the charging stand. It may be fully charged, or it may have a problem that needs attention.
To get the most life out of your batteries, use and charge them at room temperature. If possible, keep the battery and charger in a location where the temperature is around 70 degrees Fahrenheit. Do not leave either in a hot car or outside during freezing weather.
Finally, if you aren’t going to use your drill for more than a month, remove the battery from the tool and put it in the charger to keep it fully charged.
During a normal workday, you can expect to put between 20 and 30 volts into your fastener before the battery starts to lose power. When the battery voltage goes below 10.5 volts, it is considered discharged.
Drills require different amounts of energy to turn their metal bits at the highest speed setting. If your power tool’s motor is rated at 12 volts and 1.5 amps, it will use up (12 volts x 1.5 amps) = 18 watts of energy.
A power tool uses a battery to convert stored chemical energy into mechanical energy. The chemical energy in the battery is created by a reaction between the battery’s components. In a drill, the battery produces an electrical charge that makes the drill bit spin.
Most batteries contain a zinc “starter” battery and a cadmium “storage” battery. The starter battery releases a large amount of power very fast to start the tool turning. Then the storage battery, which is a lower-powered battery, takes over. The storage battery provides power to keep the tool running at a steady speed. Most drills have two batteries so you can keep working if one battery loses power or runs out.
Do not charge battery packs when they are hot. Let them cool down before charging. Hot battery packs may catch fire and can explode!
Lithium-Ion batteries do not develop a “memory” like traditional batteries. You do not need to discharge them completely before recharging because this practice can actually impair the battery’s performance.
Like all batteries, these can be recharged only so many times before they wear out.
Chargers for newer battery packs may also have a spark feature that can be used to ignite a combustible gas leak.
Chargers often contain a spark feature that can be used to ignite a gas leak. This feature is intended to be used if you detect a gas leak and need to scare away the surrounding people.
These features must be turned on manually using a switch on the charger. Do not use if your charger does not have this feature.
What is the best way to store my cordless drill or driver?
Always keep it in a dry place. In addition, you should plug your charger in overnight (or at least several hours) before you plan to use it again. This is especially important during the winter, when you don’t want a dead battery when you most need it.
Does my cordless drill or driver have memory?
Some manufacturers claim that cordless tools do not have a memory. But because of the way batteries work, they do have a limited memory. The battery “remembers” what it was doing when you used it last and will have a harder time reaching full power if you don’t let it rest for several hours first. It doesn’t matter whether that rest is powering your television or sitting on a shelf.
What should I do before I store my cordless drill or driver for the winter?
First, be sure to charge the battery overnight. Next, drain all power from the battery by running the tool until it stops. Finally, wrap the battery in newspaper (don’t laugh; it works great for this) and place it in a plastic bag before putting it into your toolbox for storage.
What do I need to know about chargers?
It is best to buy your tools and batteries from the same company to make sure the charger is designed to work properly with that brand of battery. Just because a charger fits a battery slot doesn’t mean it is the proper one for that battery pack.
What do I need to know about batteries?
Most cordless tools use one of two types of batteries: Nickel-Cadmium (Ni-Cad) and Lithium-Ion (Li-ion). Both types of batteries have advantages and disadvantages.
Ni-Cad batteries tend to be cheaper and are good for heavy-duty work. They also can take a lot of abuse before losing their charge, but they are much heavier than Li-ion, hold less of a charge, and need to be fully discharged before recharging. If you don’t let them go completely dead before recharging, the battery will lose its ability to hold a charge altogether after about 500 cycles or so.
Li-ion batteries are much lighter than Ni-Cad batteries, can hold a charge for much longer than a Nicad, and can be charged anywhere from 100 to 1,000 times. But they are more expensive, and you must completely cycle the battery (that is, let it go completely dead) at least once a month in order for it to retain its charge.
What are the different types of bits on my cordless drill or driver?
Basically, there are two different types of bits: Drill bits and screwdriver bits.
Drill bits are used to drill holes and drive screws. The tip is the part that does all the work. It can be sharp (picture a wood bit) or flat (like a masonry bit).
The shank is the long, thick part of the bit that connects the tip to the body. The body is just that, the long part that houses the tip and shank as well as the mechanism that lets you apply torque.
Screwdriver bits are either flat (for applying pressure) or crosshead (for turning).
What are the most common types of drill bits and what do I need them for?
Hole saw: Used to cut very large holes into wood, plastic, thin metal, and laminate flooring. The smallest diameter you’ll generally find is 3-1/2 inches.
Spade bit: Used to cut a hole that doesn’t require an opening wider than the width of the bit, such as an electrical box for a switch or plug. Spade bits are available in different lengths depending on the size of the hole you need to cut.
Carbide-tipped drill bits: Used for drilling extremely hard materials such as ceramic tiles or hardwoods. The tip is much harder than a high-speed steel bit, allowing it to last three to five times longer, but it also costs much more.
High-speed steel drill bits: By far the most common type of drill bit, these can be used on a wide variety of materials and are very inexpensive. They tend to dull quicker than carbide bits, though.
Metal saw blade: Used for cutting thin metal such as sheet metal or soft aluminum. Not to be used on steel or iron as the teeth can easily dull.
Masonry bit: Used for drilling into soft bricks, thin concrete, and hollow blocks. The tip is specially designed to keep the bit from slipping off-center.
Hacksaw blade: Used for cutting metal or other hard materials that a standard metal saw blade won’t work on.
Wood bit: Like a spade bit, but with wood-cutting teeth.
What are the different types of screwdriver bits and what do I need them for?
Crosshead bit: Used for general-purpose fastening in wood, plastic, and light metal.
Flat-head bit: Used for general-purpose fastening in soft metals such as copper, aluminum, and soft stainless steel.
Pozidriv bit: Used for fastening in hard plastics and thin metal, as well as prying off trim. Very similar to the crosshead bit but with a triangular tip.
Phillips bit: As you might expect, this is used for fastening in soft metals such as copper, aluminum, and soft stainless steel, as well as plastic. The screw slot has a distinctive cross shape that keeps the bit from slipping out. Not to be used in hard metals or the slot can get stripped.
Torx bit: Much like the Phillips bit, the Torx has a star-shaped hole that prevents slipping. It also has deeper teeth for better gripping. Developed by Bosch, it is quickly becoming the most popular fastener in industry and engineering.
Where can I find these bits?
Many tool manufacturers sell bit sets that contain most of the bits listed above. The quality of these bits varies wildly, though, so it’s a good idea to do some research before you buy. The cheapest sets can be especially dubious, as the bits may be dull or just downright flimsy.
If you’re looking for individual bits, you’ll have an easier time at a industrial supply store or online (I’ve found that builders hardware stores tend to overcharge). If you can’t get to a real store, Amazon and eBay usually have what you need.
With knowledge and preparation, you too can be a master of the tool box!
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