Milwaukee M18 Fuel Compact Band Saw 2829/2829S Specifications:
Type: Band Saw (M18)
Overall Length: 29 1⁄2″ / 715 mm. Overall Width: 11 3⁄4″ / 280 mm. Overall Height: 8 5⁄8″ / 215 mm.
Blade Diameter: 2″ / 50 mm. Blade Thickness at Base: 0.053″ /1mm.
Blade Thickness at Top: 0.085″ / 3 mm. Handle Material: Steel with Wood Plating
Handle Color: Black or Silver Finish
Weight (with blade): 4 lbs 9 ozs . (With blade)
Barrel Length : 16″ – 22″.
Feed Type: Ball Bearing
Feed Rate: 30 – 40 Rounds per Minute.
The Milwaukee M18 Fuel Compact Band Saw 2829/2829S is one of the most popular band saws among hobbyists and professionals alike. This model features a solid steel body with a black finish and a silver plated handle. It also comes with an adjustable blade guide and a tension release knob, so you can easily change the blade or adjust the cutting speed.
The compact design of this saw fits into tighter areas than larger band saws. It is also much lighter, weighing about 5 pounds without a blade. This model comes with a new M18 REDLITHIUM Battery (1.5Ah)and a rapid charger so it can be used right out of the box.
The M18 Fuel Compact Band Saw (2829-20) is priced at $169. The blade (28TBP570) and the blade cover (28TBC320) are sold separately. This model is also available in a kit with the blade and cover for $219.
You need to use the M18 Fuel Compact Band Saw (2829-20) with an M18 battery and an M18 charger.
The M18 RedLithium Battery has a 1.5Ah capacity. The battery offers improved run time over older batteries.
It is also lighter, weighing about 1 pound. The M18 Charger will charge a battery in 45 minutes or less. It can even be plugged into a standard household outlet.
M18 batteries require M18 chargers.
You can use the M18 batteries and charger with your existing M12 tools, however only the M18 REDLITHIUM Battery (1.5Ah) offers improved run time over older models.
The M18 Starter Set uses 2 M12 Batteries and an M12 charger. You can use the new M18 battery with your existing M12 tools.
The M12 Quick Change Chuck accepts all standard rotary tool accessories.
The SPEEDCLICKER dial offers fast clutch settings from 0-4.
The M18 Fuel Compact Band Saw 2829-20 can be used for a wide range of applications including: cutting tile, cutting sheet metal, and cutting smaller wood pieces. It can also be used for cutting non-wood materials like plastic and rubber.
Can cut all non-ferrous metals (aluminum, copper, brass, etc).
Can cut wood and plastic.
Do not attempt to cut any material harder than wood or plastic.
Always use the same number of teeth as the blade that came with the saw.
When changing blades, turn the power OFF and wait until the blade comes to a complete stop.
Never attempt to cut a cable or wire with this tool.
Never use the saw without a blade and make sure the blade is seated properly in the clamps.
When cutting wood, make sure the blade is set for the material you are cutting (number of teeth).
Never reach around the saw to the blade while it is running. Turn it off, set it down then make your adjustments.
Always wear safety glasses or goggles and other recommended safety gear when using this tool.
Do not use this band saw to cut through any material hotter than 50 degrees C.
Do not leave the band saw running unattended.
Never carry the tool by the blade.
After making cuts, wait for the blade to come to a complete stop before removing the material from the table.
Store tool out of reach of children and people with disabilities.
Do not drop or throw the tool on a hard surface as this can damage the internal parts of the tool.
Do not store material inside the table as this can cause a fire hazard.
Do not attempt to modify this tool or place your hand inside the tool while it is running.
Do not attempt to use this tool as a hammer or pry bar.
The top of the table gets very hot during use, let the tool and the table cool before moving it or placing any object on the table. Do not place hands near the top of the tool while it is on.
The switch (on the left side) is in an awkward position since it is designed to be used with a right-handed grip (like most Milwaukee tools). To turn the tool ON or OFF, push the switch to the side with your thumb while holding the tool with your right hand (if you are right-handed).
The tool will turn OFF when the trigger is released.
This saw has an automatic braking system. This means that when you release the trigger, the blade will stop spinning.
The blade can be adjusted to create a rip (longer) cut or a cross (shorter) cut. The blade is designed to cut in both directions without removing it from the tool.
When changing the blade, turn the power OFF and wait until the blade comes to a complete stop.
When installing or removing a blade, keep your free hand well away from the saw. Blades are very sharp and can cause nasty cuts.
The blade clamp is held in place by a lever on the right side of the saw (when you are using it with a right-handed grip). To remove the blade, release the lever then raise the clamp so it comes out of the notches in the table. The entire blade clamp can then be moved to the side and removed.
To reinstall a new blade, do the same steps in reverse.
Once the blade is installed, turn the power ON and make any necessary adjustments to the blade tension.
The manual suggests to use a Tekton Digital Angle Gauge for this task. The manual also says any competent person should be able to set the correct tension without this tool.
Setting blade tension should be done on a flat and stable surface. The saw should not move at all when force is applied to the front end of the saw. If it moves to the left or right, the amount of movement should be adjusted until no movement remains (front to back).
If the blade is bowed, increase the tension until the bow is straightened then slightly loosen the tension.
To adjust the blade tension, loosen the two outer bolts on the front end of the tool. Turn the middle bolt (clockwise) to increase or (counterclockwise) to decrease the blade tension. After any adjustments are made, tighten the two outer bolts until they are snug then go back and make an fine adjustment to the middle bolt.
The saw can cut materials less than 1/2″ thick. This may not be ideal for thicker materials so an auxiliary support on the back side of the cut may be necessary.
The saw is capable of ripping material that is 2-1/2″ wide. It can also crosscut material up to 3-1/4″ wide. This can be increased by adjusting the angle of the blade (angle the blade so it cuts further into the workpiece instead of lifting and dropping it into the cut).
Do not force the saw to cut material that is wider than it is capable of handling. If you try to force it, the results won’t be good and you may damage the saw. You can make multiple cuts instead.
Make sure the blade teeth are set to cut in the intended direction of feed. Cutting “backwards” on the teeth can cause binding and kickback.
When cutting materials that tend to bind without difficulty (plywood, MDF, etc.) it may be necessary to keep your other hand on the workpiece behind the area of cut. This will keep the workpiece from twisting and jamming the blade.
If you have to stop the cut for any reason, quickly pull your hands away from the saw and stand it up on its back so no one trips over it.
The manual has a couple of sample cutting diagrams.
With the saw set up and ready to go, take a look at the wood pieces that will be used in the box. Pick out which ones will fit best. This will help determine how many drawers you will need.
Look at drawer construction plans online or go through some old boxes to see how they were built.
Choose the wood pieces for your box then get to cutting and gluing.
After the glue has set, you can sand down the inside of the box. This is best done with a belt sander or at least an orbital sander. Hand sanding everything would take forever.
After the inside is sanded, the box should be stained (or painted). You’ll need to do at least two coats or it won’t cover everything.
After the stain has dried, you can move on to the outside of the box. If you used plywood for the outside, you should be able to sand it by hand. When you are satisfied with the wood texture, it’s ready for a finish.
Apply at least two coats of the finish of your choice. Be sure to let the finish dry between coats.
While that is drying, you can make the drawer pulls (if you decide to use any).
Measure the thickness of the front and back of the drawer. This is added to the thickness of the sides for the length you will need for your pulls. Mark this length on a spare piece of the same wood you are using for your drawer fronts and cut it to size.
Then round off one end with a router or file or whatever works best for you.
Sand all the pieces then apply a finish if you want. When finished, glue them together and let the glue dry.
You can use these same techniques on many different types of boxes. Just look around you and I’m sure you’ll find plenty to make into boxes!
If you find that you are making a lot of a certain size boxes, you may want to get the saw and blades professionally sharpened. This will extend the life of the blade quite a bit and saves you the hassle of having to do it yourself. It’s usually not that expensive to do.
Thanks for reading my tutorial! I hope you found it useful!
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