Diy Bucket Diy Dust Collector Plans
There are many ways to make your own bucket dust collection system. You could use a plastic bucket or even one made out of wood. However, if you want to save money, then it would be better to buy a small metal dust collecting bucket from Amazon. They usually cost less than $5 and they work just fine for the job!
You will need a few things to build your own DIY bucket dust collection system:
A plastic container (like a large glass jar) with a lid. You can get them at any grocery store or hardware store. Make sure that the lid fits tightly around the inside of the container so that there won’t be air leaks when you pour water into it. A funnel works well too since you don’t have to worry about spilling anything while pouring.
A funnel is useful because you can easily measure out the right amount of water for each part of the bucket. A rubber band works great for holding down the lid. Some people like to use duct tape instead. You can get it at most home improvement stores. If you choose to go without duct tape, then a piece of electrical wire works just fine too.
The next step is choosing which type of filter to put in your bucket.
Option 1: Char Cloth
This option is probably the easiest one, but it will cost you a little money up front. You can buy a bag of char cloth online or at your local home improvement store. Be sure to only get the kind that is for gas logs because the other kinds are for lighting candles and incense and they won’t work for this project.
Put some char cloth in the bottom of your bucket. You can then put a few more layers on top of it. Be sure to leave enough room at the top so that you can put your lid on (or you can also use duct tape or electrical wire to hold down the lid). Fill the bucket up with water and leave it alone for a while.
Option 2: Steel Wool
You can get steel wool at your local home improvement store. You can get the cheap stuff, but it is best to go with the higher quality kind. It is usually a lot softer and will compress easier when you add water (which makes it easier to breath through). You can get either a bag of steel wool or a can of compressed steel wool pads.
You will want to take one steel wool pad and put it into your container (you can also use a small bucket). Be careful when you put in the steel wool because it is really sharp! You should probably use gloves. After you have the steel wool in, put a few cups of water into the container.
Grab the steel wool and start to squish it gently with your hands until it starts to disintegrate. This will take some time, but keep at it until the water is clear and you can’t see any steel wool anymore. You can then put a few more cups of water into your container. After that is done, put the lid on, or you can use duct tape or electrical wire to hold down the lid.
Option 3: Building a Simple Dust Deputy
You can also just build a simple dust deputy (or cyclone). This will cost you nothing, but it takes a little longer to make. You can find a tutorial for how to build one here: How to Build a Simple Dust Deputy
Option 4: Using an Shop Vac
You can also use a small shop vac instead of the dust deputy. Just hook up your shop vac like you would to clean up a mess on your workbench. This will catch most of the big stuff and a lot of the fine dust. The problem is that you will still have to do some filtering with fabric or paper towels.
Option 5: Using an Exhaust Hood From the Kitchen
You can also use an exhaust hood from the kitchen. These are easy to find at garage sales and they work OK (depending on your tolerance for smells). They don’t filter the air very well, but they do vent it outside.
Option 6: Building a Simple HEPA Filter
You can build a simple but effective HEPA filter. I will write more on this soon, but for now you can check out this link: How to Build a Simple HEPA Filter (for under $20)
Understand Gases and Fumes
When working with epoxy, the main concern is gases being released from the chemicals. Epoxy releases very toxic and harmful gases. You want to release these gases outside and not into your workshop.
These gases are released at different times during the mixing, handling, and curing of the epoxy. The type of epoxy you use will determine the amount of danger involved with these gasses. Some types of epoxy release more dangerous gases than others. For example, some epoxies release a lot of carbon dioxide, which is not as harmful as the others.
The main thing you need to worry about the most is the amount of oxygen in the room. You need to have good ventilation and enough airflow to release these gases outside. Using an exhaust system for your dust deputy will help a lot with this (as long as you aren’t wearing a filter mask). You also need to make sure not to seal up your face with a full-face respirator, as this could lead to suffocation on the gasses released from the epoxy.
Also, make sure to open the container of epoxy outside and not in the house (even if the container says it’s safe for indoor use). Epoxy is a curing agent and will off-gas no matter what. Opening it outside will release a lot less of the harmful gases inside your home.
Wear Proper Protection
When using epoxy, you should ALWAYS wear a NIOSH-approved dust mask. Even if you are using an “aqueous” epoxy (water-based), you will want to wear a mask. Make sure the mask has NIOSH approval, and that it is a P2 or P100. The P number signifies how effective the mask is at filtering out particles.
You should also have proper eye protection and latex gloves. Epoxy can cause damage if it gets in your eyes, on your skin, or even if you breath it in (inhale).
It is a good idea to wear a long-sleeved shirt and pants to keep the epoxy off your skin and away from your clothing. Wearing a long-sleeve shirt will also help prevent the epoxy from getting on your arms.
You also want to make sure you are in a well-ventilated area. If you aren’t wearing a dust mask, then you definitely don’t want to be breathing in the epoxy gasses being released.
Wear Your Dust Deputy and Breathe Easy
While working with epoxy, you should always make sure that your dust deputy is on. Even if you are wearing a dust mask, the Dust Deputy will help filter the air and prevent clouds of dust or sanding residue from being blown into the air.
Make sure that you wear a NIOSH-approved dust mask as well. You can get 3M brand P2 or P100 masks from Home Depot or Lowes. Don’t cheap out and buy a knock-off from China as they don’t provide the same level of safety.
Wear Your Gas Mask
If you are going to be working with a lot of epoxy, or are using an epoxy that is known to give off a strong smell or gas, then you should consider wearing a respirator.
Even if you are working outside, the respirator will help prevent you from breathing in the harmful epoxy gasses. A respirator can be used in place of a dust mask and they are more effective at filtering out particles and gasses than a regular dust mask.
If you are just doing small projects with epoxy and don’t notice a strong smell or harmful gases, then you can probably get away without wearing anything on your face.
Be Careful When Using Chemicals
If you are using an “aqueous” epoxy (water-based), then it likely is not going to give off any harmful fumes. You should still wear a NIOSH-approved dust mask when applying the epoxy just to be safe.
If you are using a “catalyzed” epoxy (sandable, thickened, slow), then you will definitely want to wear a dust mask and possibly even more. The fumes that come off of the chemical are no joke. They can cause serious harm to your lungs and throat if you are exposed over an extended period of time.
Some epoxies, like the West System, also require you to mix two separate components before you can use it. This is easy enough when using a disposable cup, but when mixing large quantities it would be very easy to accidentally get some of the mixed epoxy on your skin.
You can prevent yourself from accidentally getting epoxy on your skin by wearing latex or rubber gloves. These will also prevent the epoxy from absorbing into your skin. Skin that has absorbed epoxy can cause a multitude of different rashes and irritations.
Apply the Epoxy with a Roller
After you have mixed, and possibly tested, the epoxy you are ready to start applying it to the outside of your rocket. You can use this same disposable cup and stir stick to evenly spread the epoxy on the rocket.
Paintbrushes are often used for this purpose, but rollers tend to work better and give a more even coat. You can use either a natural bristle or synthetic roller. I prefer the synthetic rollers since they don’t leave whatever fibers they are made out of in the epoxy.
You want to apply the epoxy in thin layers. Epoxy does not always level itself out when it dries so putting on a heavy coat may result in an unsightly build up of thick hardened epoxy.
After using the roller to apply the epoxy, you should use a small craft stick (like a popsicle stick) to “scrub” the roller against the part of the rocket that you are applying the epoxy to. This will help remove any thick areas of epoxy and spread it out.
Let the epoxy sit for a few minutes and repeat this process several times until you are satisfied with the coverage.
Sand the Rocket
After allowing the epoxy to dry, you may notice that it has formed a skin on top. This skin must be sanded off before finishing or your final paint job won’t have a nice sheen to it.
You can use a medium grit sandpaper like an 80 to gently sand off the skin. Be careful not to press too hard or you may wear through the epoxy and into the foam underneath. After removing the majority of the skin, you can use a fine grit sand paper like a 150 to make the epoxy smooth and even.
If you notice thick patches of epoxy after sanding you may want to apply a second coat. Multiple thin coats are always better than a few thick coats.
Applying the Finish
After all of the sanding is done you can apply your choice of finish to your rocket. The most common options are varnish, enamel paint, and epoxy-based paint.
Varnish yields a very shiny surface but can yellow over time if not maintained. Enamel paint tends to be slightly less shiny than the varnish and lasts longer. Finally, the epoxy paint has a nice shiny finish but is prone to chipping if you are not careful with it.
The tools needed for each option are slightly different. If you are using varnish or enamel paints you will need some sort of foam roller and moderate pressure. This is to work the maximum amount of varnish or paint into the foam. Abrasive tools can be used to create a semi-gloss or glossy surface.
If you are using epoxy paint, the surface needs to be flat and without texture. This means that you need a very smooth brush or roller. Light pressure is all that is needed to work the paint into the foam. The surface should end up with a slightly dull finish.
Regardless of the method, multiple coats of finish are needed to yield a nice looking rocket. Multiple thin coats are better than a few thick coats. Give ample time for each coat to dry before applying the next.
Give your rocket at least one week to dry before launching it. The exact time will vary based on the materials used and the thickness of the coating.
Finishing the Recovery Gear
The recovery system is composed of three main parts: the parachute, the deployment mechanism, and the streamers. The parachute and deployment mechanism were constructed way back near the beginning of the project. This section will cover the construction of the streamers.
The streamers are used to provide directional stability to the rocket after it has deployed its parachute. The faster the parachute is flying, the more stable it should be. By attaching long strips of colored paper to the parachute, you increase the surface area and cause the parachute to fly slower.
The materials needed are:
Coat Hanger (optional)
Sources & references used in this article:
- Method for manufacturing a bucket for a wet/dry vacuum cleaner (PD Stephens, MF Wright, RA Matousek… – US Patent …, 1996 – Google Patents)
- Sucket bucket (J Dunkel, T Dunkel – US Patent App. 11/196,835, 2007 – Google Patents)
- Structure of an impurities collecting bucket for an air separator and purifier (GC Chen – US Patent 8,012,230, 2011 – Google Patents)
- Mop bucket and wringer (US Patent D548,913, 2007 – freepatentsonline.com)
- Rotary broom with vacuum dust control (RC Torno – US Patent App. 11/487,844, 2008 – Google Patents)
- Rotary broom with vacuum dust control (RC Torno – US Patent 7,958,596, 2011 – Google Patents)
- Dump bucket for a wet/dry vacuum system (C Parise, KR Uhlig, WW Lockard – US Patent 4,083,705, 1978 – Google Patents)
- Free-of-bearing rotational positioning device for a dewatering basket of a non-treading type wringer bucket (Y Chen – US Patent 8,347,451, 2013 – Google Patents)