Cuz-D Straight Flush Saw Preview


Cuz-D Straight Flush Saw Review

The Cuz-D Straight Flush Saw is a new saw from the company Cuz-D. The straight flush saw is designed with a unique design that makes it easy to use. However, the price tag might be high, so you may want to consider other options first before purchasing one of these saws.

Design:

The straight flush saw comes in two different models; the standard model and the double-ended version. Both are made of steel and feature a single blade that runs along both sides of the fence. There is no blade guard or handle on either side of the fence. The blades have a smooth cutting edge, which means they don’t cause any chipping or gouging when used to cut through wood.

The blades are held together by a set screw that is located at the bottom of each blade. The screws are long enough to allow them to easily reach all the way into the wood, but not so long that they will damage your saw if you accidentally drop it while using it.

Overall, these saws look nice and feel sturdy. They do have some drawbacks though.

The double-ended version has a handle on each end, so you can use it from either side, but it doesn’t have an automatic blade guard. You’ll need to use your other hand to hold the wood in place while you press the saw down. It can be a bit awkward to use this way, especially if you’re trying to make a long cut. The other drawback is that the blade doesn’t protrude on the inside of the curve.

Because of this, you won’t be able to cut right up against a corner.

The standard version has a single handle and an automatic blade guard, but the blade only comes out on one side, so you won’t be able to get right up against a corner when you’re making a long cut. It also won’t let you cut something flush with the edge of your work piece.

Both versions will allow you to easily cut a long plank in half, but they won’t allow you to fit the two pieces together after you’ve cut them. This is a common problem with most straight flush saws though, so it’s not really a drawback.

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These saws are designed for occasional use, but they can be used every day if needed. They can handle a lot more than most other flush cut saws, but they still can’t handle as much as some of the other saws on this list.

The Verdict:

The Cuz-D straight flush saw is a nice addition to any tool collection. They’re great for making straight and angled cuts in wood, plastic, and thin metal. They’re also easy to use and don’t require any extra effort or strength to get the job done. They just have a few drawbacks that may not be worth the money to some people.

Cuz-D straight flush saws come in two different versions: one with a single handle and blade guard and one with no handle and an automatic blade guard. They also come in two different sizes, standard and double-ended. The standard version comes in 10″, 12″, 14″, and 16″ sizes. The double-ended version only comes in 10″ and 12″ sizes.

Sizes: 10″, 12″

Blade width: 1-1/2″

Arbor: 3/8″

Price: $15 – $18

#7 The Power Jig Saw: (Corded)

Purpose:

Jigsaw blades have a very thin, narrow blade that can be made from a variety of materials. They are designed with the ability to cut through just about anything with ease, but they can be very dangerous to use if you don’t know what you’re doing. They should never be used on metal or any other hard surfaces.

History:

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The jigsaw was first invented in 1818 by a man named Robert Lyman, but it didn’t get its name until 1834 when it was called the “sawing machine” by its inventor David Nieper. The word “jigsaw” most likely comes from the name of a tool used in wood-working called a “jig-saw” which was a type of wood-cutter that was fitted with teeth on its blade.

How it works:

The saw is essentially a thin metal blade that’s connected to a handle by a flexible cable (much like a giant, dangerous staple). All you have to do is secure your work piece, turn on the saw and guide the blade around the outside. Be very careful when using these! They can easily cut off your fingers if you’re not paying attention.

Advantages:

The thin blade of a jigsaw makes it easy to cut through just about anything, even things that other saws can’t cut through. These saws are also very versatile and can be used for a wide variety of purposes beyond simple cutting.

Disadvantages:

These saws are probably the trickiest to use and most dangerous (to you) of all the saws on this list. Their thin blades can easily destabilize and send your hand flying across the room if you’re not careful. They also have a tendency to catch and bind in the cutting process, which could cause them to rip right out of your hand. Be sure to always wear safety equipment when using one of these!

The Verdict:

If you need a saw that can cut through anything, then a jigsaw is definitely the way to go. Just be very careful when using one of these. A mishap could result in serious injury.

Jig saws come in two different types: corded and cordless. The corded version obviously requires a power cord in order to work, while the cordless can be used anywhere as long as its battery has a charge. Just be careful when using the battery-powered ones, as they tend to lose power quickly and can die on you in the middle of a project.

They also come in a few different sizes: 10″, 12″, 14″, and 16″. The size of the blade determines how wide of a cut it can make in one pass.

Sizes: 10″, 12″, 14″

Cuz-D Straight Flush Saw Preview - Picture

Arbor: 5/8″

Price: $20 – $40

#8 The Key Hole Saw: (Corded and Cordless)

Purpose:

These saws have very fine, narrow blades that are used for cutting into tight corners that other saws can’t reach. They’re mostly used for cutting holes in drywall and masonry. They can also be used in a wide variety of other applications.

History:

The keyhole saw was invented in the late 1800s by H.W. MacComas, who was a carpenter from Tennessee. He named his saw the “Magicut” and held a patent on it until 1921.

The first versions of the saw were hand cranked, but they eventually became electrified in the 1930s.

How it works:

The blade is extremely thin so that it can fit into tight places. All you have to do is clamp it into the hole you want to cut, turn it on and carefully guide it around the perimeter. Be extremely careful when using one of these! These saws are very fine and can easily slip out of your hand and into your finger.

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Advantages:

Since the blade is so narrow, it can be maneuvered into tight spaces that other saws can’t reach. This makes it great for cutting holes in drywall and masonry. It can also be used in a wide variety of other applications.

Disadvantages:

Because the blade is so narrow, it is prone to binding and catching on the material you’re cutting. This can be dangerous because it can easily cause the saw to kick back and lop off one of your fingers. Always wear safety equipment when using one of these!

The Verdict:

Useful to have in certain situations, but not really necessary for day-to-day household use. If you only need one every once in a while, then by all means go ahead and pick one up. But if you need to make a lot of cuts in tight places on a regular basis, then it might be worth investing in a more heavy duty tool.

Sizes:

Due to the thinness of the blade, there isn’t really a size classification.

Arbor:

None; Keyhole saws traditionally do not use an arbor, rather they are held in place via a C-clamp.

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Price:

$12 – $20

#9 The Miter Saw: (Corded and Cordless)

Purpose:

These are primarily used to cut wood and plastic. They can also be used for a wide variety of other materials as well. Just adjust the settings to match what you’re cutting. These saws are the workhorses of any contractor or do-it-yourselfer’s arsenal.

History:

Miter saws were created by a man named Richard Rysted in the 1890s. The first designs were made with circular saw blades that were attached to a bench and could only make 90-degree cuts. Rysted soon realized the need for steeper angles and released his design for an adjustable model in 1897. It became fairly popular and was used extensively by the US Navy.

How it works:

Miter saws consist of a motor, a blade, a grip, and an adjustable arm. Most models will also have an adjustable table that raises and lowers the material you’re cutting. The motor drives the blade, which can be adjusted to any angle. The grip is what you hold the saw with, and the arm is what holds the material you’re cutting.

These saws can be corded or cordless.

Advantages:

The main advantage to miter saws is that they can make extremely accurate cuts. They are also fairly easy to use and can be used for a wide variety of materials.

Disadvantages:

The main disadvantage to these tools is their bulk. Miter saws can be quite large and unwieldy. This makes them less than ideal for certain situations.

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Types:

Miter Saws can be corded or cordless. Cordless models have the advantage of being much easier to maneuver since you’re not tethered to a wall. They can also hold a charge for much longer periods of time. However, cordless units can still be quite unwieldy, and they lose their charge fairly quickly.

They also have shorter warranties than their corded counterparts. Miter saws can also be either gas or electric. The difference is fairly obvious, although the downsides to gas models are that they’re messy and create a lot of fumes.

Gas or Electric:

This really comes down to personal preference. There are benefits and drawbacks to both. Gas models are typically much cheaper than their electric counterparts. They’re also lighter and have more power.

They typically start a lot quicker as well. The downside is that they can be messy and create a lot of fumes. They can also be a bit unwieldy.

Electric models are usually cheaper than their cordless counterparts. They’re also easier to handle and a lot quieter. The downsides are that they typically require extension cords and are prone to throwing off the timing.

Corded or Cordless:

It all comes down to what you’re comfortable with. If you don’t mind dealing with extension cords, then the corded model will be a better choice since it’s typically cheaper and has more power. If you’re not going to be tethered to an extension cord or you feel like you’re going to need the maneuverability of a cordless unit, then go with that instead.

Blade Size:

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The larger the blade, the faster the cut can be made. However, this means you have to make more passes, and this can lead to an uneven cut. The smaller the blade, the cleaner the cut will be, but it takes longer. You have to find a happy medium between speed and quality.

Angle Settings:

You shouldn’t ever rely solely on the gauge that comes with your miter saw for cutting crown molding. You should always double check your measurements before making any cuts. Using a gauge is just to get you in the ballpark.

Blade Guard:

These are fairly self explanatory, although it really only serves to protect people. If you’re cutting small pieces of wood, the guard has been known to cause the lumber to catch and throw it back at the operator. This could result in an injury, so it’s always best to remove it when cutting anything smaller than your blade.

Mitre Gauge:

These are especially useful when cutting crown molding. You can buy specially made gauges for this purpose. These are fairly inexpensive and can save you a lot of time. They hold your wood in place so that it’s guaranteed to be cut straight.

Miter Saws Or Table Saws:

If you’re cutting a lot of molding then it might be worth your time to build a molding table for your table saw. This will allow you to make very precise and even cuts much more quickly than with a miter saw. Of course, this is only really going to be useful if you’re going to be doing a lot of molding work.

Helpful Tips:

– When cutting molding, it’s always better to cut it a bit long and then trim it down to size. You can never go back, so it’s always better to be safe than sorry.

– Always use a scrap piece of wood that’s the same thickness as your molding when practicing your cuts.

– If you don’t have a molding gauge, you can make your own by using a carpenter’s square. Lay it on a flat surface and hook your straight edge (ie: saw, chisel, etc) over one of the legs. This will give you a perfect 90 degree angle every time.

– When cutting molding, always cut from the bottom to the top. This will give you a clean edge without any splintering.

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– When installing crown molding, it’s typically better to nail it from the bottom instead of the top. This reduces the chance of splitting and also makes your crown stand out more.

– Always prime and paint all your edges before installing. This will prevent unsightly stains from showing through on the finished product.

Spotting a Good One

It’s always best to buy your miter saw new, but of course this isn’t always an option for most people. Here are some things to look for when buying a used one:

Check for Damage:

Before even turning on the unit, check it for any signs of damage. Things to look out for are dents, cracks, and chips in the plastic or metal pieces. Be extra careful with carbide teeth as well. These are very fragile and even a small nick will render it useless.

Test the Movement:

Move the unit through all its motions and make sure everything moves smoothly and without hesitation.

Test the Blade:

The most important thing to test is the blade itself. Without a sharp blade, your miter saw is basically just a very heavy paperweight. There are two things you need to test, the teeth and the tension. Teeth can become dull with use and this is fairly easy to spot.

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Just like a blade for a table saw, miter saw blades have a certain pattern. If this pattern is no longer uniform or not symmetrical then it’s time for a new blade.

Tension is a little harder to spot. The tension holds the blade firmly in place while in use so it doesn’t distort or bend during use. Over time the tensioner loosens and needs to be tightened up. You can check this by trying to wobble the blade from side to side.

Any play at all means it’s time for a new blade. Also, new blades are typically much brighter than old ones. While this isn’t a surefire way of telling, if you can compare it to your old blade it should be much easier to spot.

Before using a used blade, test it the same way and if either of the tests reveal any problems then do not use it.

Buying a New One

This is an easy one – don’t. Well, unless you have no other choice at all. New miter saws cost upwards of $200 and for most DIYers, this is a tool that will rarely get used. It’s just not worth it when you can find a quality used one for $100 or less.

If you are dead set on buying new though, make sure that the warranty has not expired and read the warranty info carefully. Manufacturers have been known to exclude damage caused by normal wear and tear from warranties.

Where to Buy

Check your local craigslist or search for “second hand tools” in your area. I have also had luck on the local buy and sell sites in addition to garage sales. You’d be surprised what people have out in their garage that they are willing to part with.

It’s always best to inspect the tool yourself if possible. If not, then call the guy and ask as many questions as you can. The worst they can say is no. Here are some things to ask:

What is wrong with it?

What is included in the sale?

Are there any missing pieces?

Is the blade sharp? Has it been used much?

How is the blade tension?

Are there any cracks or chips in the plastic parts?

Is there any damage to the metal parts?

Has the unit ever been in service?

(Make sure you know if they mean commercially or just around the home)

Buying one new is not recommended, but if you decide to, your best bet is to buy locally so you can inspect it yourself.

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Regardless of where you buy your miter saw from, it should come with the following:

– The saw itself

– A stand or base

– A hex key for the locking bolts on the stand (allen keys will vary depending on brand)

– Blade guard and riving knife (rarely included)

– Instruction manual

If anything is missing, this is not the time to try and save a few bucks. Make the seller give you the missing items. If they say no, then walk away.

Features

If you are looking for a new miter saw, there are a few things to look for.

The most obvious one is how big of a cut will it make?

12″ is pretty standard, but if you need to cut anything bigger than that, then you might want to look at a larger model.

The next thing is what kind of material will it cut?

Plastic, metal, and wood all have different types of teeth on the blade so you need to make sure it can handle whatever you need it to.

Going back to the size of the teeth on the blade, this is what gives a miter saw its cutting speed. Typically, the smaller the teeth, the faster it can cut. This also means they dull quicker and are no good for anything other than soft wood.

The next thing to look at is the bevel mechanism. There are 2 basic types – the lever and the locking knob. The lever makes it easier to make smoother adjustments quickly, but it isn’t as accurate. With the knob type, you can easily adjust it +/-1 degree, which may not sound like much, but trust me, it is harder to do than you think.

The next thing is the grip. Miter saws can have an angled or straight grip. Typically, angled grips are for standing and straight grips are for sitting, but there are some exceptions. Angled grips allow you to push the saw with your whole arm instead of just your hand, but with a straight grip you can adjust the saw easier.

Safety features are also important. There are two main types of brakes – the physical blade brake and the rotational blade lock. The blade brake grabs the actual blade to stop it, while the other one stops the blade by locking the saw’s arbor (spindle).

Once you have all this information, you can narrow down your choices much easier.

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If you see something that isn’t on either of these lists, I would say stay away from it, or at least do some research on it yourself.

Happy woodworking!

Sources & references used in this article: